GuitarPCB.com

Feel free to add your own templates please as long as they are not copyrighted!

These can also be resized for other size enclosures.

I prefer to have my LEDs above the footswitch for several reasons so you can simply make the adjustment on these templates.

Also for some very cool Pedal Vector Art gi tto this thread by Eric aka..Powerpopguy.

Pedal Vector Art Thread

Template for a 1590BB enclosure.

Incorporating a Stage 3 Booster and any Drive or Fuzz pedal you like!!

Another 1590BB enclosure template!

One knob fuzz layout I'm using. I like the footswitches quite close to the bottom of the enclosure and the pots near the top! The LED is above the footswitch as I use Barry's wiring boards. It using a 16mm pot btw.

EDIT: Can't seem to get the pic to show on my comp... how do you post pics from photobucket?

A 3 in 1 1590BB enclosure.

If were putting a Stage 3 Booster - Aeon Drive - Crackleboost in one pedal for example.

I would do it like that.

Definitely making sure the Crackleboost was on the input side and the Stage 3 was on the output side closest to the amp.

That would make a nice Triple Combo!

I can testify that they work well together, all three that is.

Actually now that I think about it I would use the Red Dwarf Booster instead of the Crackleboost for maximum options and no crackle!!

By request here is a 1590DD 3in1 enclosure Template.

Another new 1590BB enclosure Drilling Template. Thsi one would be good for 2 Drives etc...

I use Microsoft Publisher to design my templates because of all the cool tools available.

Matt L at August 25, 2011 at 11:35 AM

I just got Microsoft Publisher and I'm loving it, except that I'm spending too much time on it, and not enough time on pedals!

Publisher has more tools than people i think realize.

Here is a tip if you have not noticed yet. Check out the insert item to or from Content library.

This stores all your designs in a handy sortable folder which shows a small version of your art saved.

Then when you want to add it into your work area just click on Insert Item from Content Library and your list pops up and double click on it and bam it is in there.

Also has ruler guides Horizontal and Vertical as well as rulers changeable from inches to centimeters etc.... on and on.

I am old enough to be some of you guys father.

Of course i use Graph Paper but hey.....Publisher is awesome! I have been using it since the 90's and when the first Radio Shack computer came out I had to have one even though it was about $2000.00 for a computer with a 250MB Hard Drive. And Bards Tale was the game of choice! My how things have changed.

Please feel free to share any of your templates here to help others design pedals.

When I get a chance I will throw a few more in here. 

Thanks of course for any Donations!

Here are some MKC examples (useful for other builds as well).

Courtesy of Schectadon:

http://www.guitarpcb.com/PDF%20Files/MKC%20v2%20TEMPLATE.pdf

http://www.guitarpcb.com/PDF%20Files/EXAMPLE%202%20H.pdf

These are obviously a couple of my label designs for the fuzzy bee, but can be used as a 3-hole template for any 125B enclosure. This layout provides space for top jacks and power (top edge of the enclosure) and provides enough space for a battery at the very front of the pedal between the Stomp Switch and the front edge of the enclosure. This image is high-res, and you may need to right-click, save as, and scale it in your favorite application so that it is 2.5 inches wide, and about 4.75 inches tall.

Also, thanks goes out to www.about-bees.com for their free bee artwork. I did the layout, but didn't draw the bee. Fuzzy though, isn't he?

A beautiful template courtesy of Schectadon for the R2G2:

From this thread:

http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/forums/topics/show/8997303-r2g2?page=1

For those that wish to use the little tab to keep your potentiometers from moving here is a great Tutorial Lesson from PeteVig:

SAVE the TAB and save your fingers and pot lugs and wiring and everything else that can go wrong when pots start spinning.

Here is my method, which also allows you to re-drill the hole after paint and provides an excellent contact point for ground to the case.  Flat bottom holes are a bit tricky but very doable with care, and thru holes are only visible when using the skinny knobs.  Sorry for the drawing quality.

I stopped breaking tabs a long time ago, although I still wrestle with some leftover pots that suffered this indignity.  Yes BobC, I drill a small hole that just fits the tab, which I hopefully described in the above drawing with enough information.  It has been a lot of trial and error, but if you stick close the dimensions provided, you should be okay.  the smaller drill size noted will give you a better fit, but does not allow room for error (drill drifting, wrong measurement).  You may want to experiment first to get a feel.  My tools are limited to a spring punch, a drill set, a hand held $ear$ bolt-on, and a cardboard box to catch the metal chips.

Here are some more pics. 

This is a good example for a Sunn-T or similar project.

As always drill at your own risk.