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Forum Home > Show Your Finished Pedal. > Dr. Rock shreds it!

tol
Member
Posts: 33

The Dr. Rock is so good! You can use this for a refined hard rock tone. Or you can blast your amp for compressed fuzzed out tones. "Layout designed by Tonmann"? Big suprise. I swear, GuitarPCB has the best designers! Thanks for having such great designs. The circuits are always tweaked so nice.


November 16, 2013 at 5:07 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Barry
Site Owner
Posts: 8793

Again awesome build! :)

Thanks for your kind compliments and taking the time to post for everyone to enjoy!

This is my favorite go to pedal for all Hair Metal and more!

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November 16, 2013 at 6:04 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Billy
Moderator
Posts: 1315

Nice I sense a pattern of some handsome looking builds

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Make your pedal building easier by reading  the excellent Crash Course Guides ,  Tips, Tricks and Tutorials and always check The Layout Gallery for more great tips, mods and stickys and the most up to date build doc's.


Billy 100% Happy 

November 16, 2013 at 7:06 PM Flag Quote & Reply

tol
Member
Posts: 33

thanks guys! I wish I could say I progressed quickly. I started back in '04(?) with the byoc vb2 kit. I only began remembering footswitch wiring without needing to refer to a layout pic a few years ago. Slow and steady wins the race I guess.

November 16, 2013 at 11:25 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Bob C
Member
Posts: 285

That's a beauty!

November 17, 2013 at 9:24 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Chris60601
Member
Posts: 8

2 questions if you dont mind -

I have several of the GPCB DPDT Wiring Boards and will make use of them with this design. Do I still populate the D.R. PCB with D1 - D4 or leave them blank and move them to the DPDT Wiring Boards?

Also - I wish to confirm that I can sub the 5mil LEDs for 3mils since thats all I have - I assume defused or does it matter? 

Thanks for your time!!


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Yeah, 220, 221. Whatever it takes.

Instagram: cds60601

August 17, 2015 at 9:03 PM Flag Quote & Reply

petevig
Moderator
Posts: 2111

The build doc (page 4 of 4) shows you how to wire using the DPDT boards, and yes, leave D1-D4 unpopulated.  You may also wish to consider using sockets to allow some bit of experimentation.  


Here is how I did mine, with LED's (3mm) on the underside so as to fit into holes drilled in the case to show off their illuminating clipping.

on the prototype board (cardboard)

I used a pair of 1N270's on the switch with 3mm yellow LED's and 2N7000's on the switch with 3mm red LED's.

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Hope this helps.

PS:  Keep mod options open, "Socket and See".


August 17, 2015 at 10:44 PM Flag Quote & Reply

hank
Member
Posts: 801
Pete, I've only used red 5mm LEDs for clipping as in the Dr Rock, Zenith, etc. is there really a noticeable difference in sound based on LED size and color? (I noticed the new Blues Power calls for green LEDS)
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August 18, 2015 at 2:45 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Barry
Site Owner
Posts: 8793

Forward voltage is the biggest difference.

Red and yellow no. Check fV.

Green & Blue etc.. slightly higher

I like green through purple for something different.




August 18, 2015 at 2:53 PM Flag Quote & Reply

petevig
Moderator
Posts: 2111

Here is a post from Billy with help from Tonmann from a Sticky (Sticky: Choosing Clipping Diodes).  Be sure to check the HELP link in the first paragraph.


http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/forums/posts/search?topic_id=9535247-dr-rock-shreds-it-&query=forward+voltage


+1 Barry for the FV aspect.

......and for what it is worth, Red/Yellow was more an artistic choice for that particular combo build than one of sound or signal.  Sometimes I think that clipping has more to do with the entire rig and what sounds good to your ears than any of the technical elements and even more so when it is feedback loop going to ground or is looped within the circuit.  Don't know why, just think it does.


In the same fashion as sugar pills are used as placebos for diet pills and people swear by them, some people hear a certain sound with clipping options based on a particular diode and/or a particular LED color or forward voltage.  Being deaf in one ear and limited hearing out of the other, I am a poor judge of sound.  I can however tell the difference between diodes and LED's because of the volume drop.  From another topic regarding diodes (not LED's), I like 1N34A's the best, then 1N270's, then BAT41's, then 1N914's,.....but I digress.  



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Hope this helps.

PS:  Keep mod options open, "Socket and See".


August 18, 2015 at 2:59 PM Flag Quote & Reply

hank
Member
Posts: 801
Thanks. The the forward voltage chart puts it into perspective. The guitar, amp, hands all contribute but some component combinations can help create that certain magic!
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August 18, 2015 at 4:38 PM Flag Quote & Reply

doctorjello
Member
Posts: 343

I used the output pads for both sets of diodes and used rototones to really open up the possibilities. Instead of the LEDs, I poulated a rototone with a pair of reds, pair of blues, one red and one blue and open. The other RT got a Zener, Si, Ge and LEDs. So many possibilities!

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I'd rather be at home building pedals.

November 17, 2016 at 4:56 PM Flag Quote & Reply

playsforfun
Moderator
Posts: 899

JBG, You could have a look at what I did with this Dr. Rock and Stage 357 combo for ideas. Fairly common diode arrangements on DPDT boards. Killer combo.

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FriendsFun, Learning, Tricks, Galleries and Shopping. That's why I love it here.

November 17, 2016 at 5:11 PM Flag Quote & Reply

ieccei
Member
Posts: 2

Do you have any suggestion what kind of Cap values should I use for Dr. Rock  in C8 if I want to tame the highest frequencies? The pedal sounds good if not taking into account highest frequencies. It sounds like the tone works for lower frequencies and rolling the tone down makes the pedal too dark sounding. I'm comparing this pedal to Wampler Plexi Drive, MI Audio Tube Zone and DIY RAT and those don't have the same overwhelming higher frequencies with my guitar amp. I was thinking cap values between 1nF and 10nF. Has anyone elese tried this kind of a modification?

Thanks in advance :)

September 28, 2017 at 3:34 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Barry
Site Owner
Posts: 8793

Not a good place for a support type question as it takes away from the thread owners project.


Dr. Rock is a long time favorite among many finished build threads so before modding ask yourself:

Is there an incorrect board value or pot value or is pedal placement a concern or perhaps any number of things honestly. An Audio Probe would make quick work finding a problem area.


A properly functioning circuit should not have overwhelming high frequencies. (See videos below) Also since this has never been a complaint in 8 years (many finished build remarks available) it would clearly suggest there may be an issue. It would not be the first time the wrong value has been used in error which would cause the problem you are suggesting. So before modding a circuit that may have an issue I suggest a proper support thread.


Here is a video demo with tone set at center. I would suggest using good speakers when auditioning as opposed to iPad, phone or tablet speakers as an example:


You need Adobe Flash Player to view this content.



An alternate Video by another player, again tone position center:


You need Adobe Flash Player to view this content.



Please start a separate support thread with photos and voltages and we can help.

September 28, 2017 at 12:32 PM Flag Quote & Reply

ieccei
Member
Posts: 2
Thanks for the Audioprobe tip. That sounds like a good idea. Anyway I think mine sounds exactly like the first video with high quality hi-fi headphones. I bought the kit based on the second video :D. It seems that I prefer more tamed highs and I'll test the C8 mod.
September 28, 2017 at 2:19 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Barry
Site Owner
Posts: 8793

Keep in mind even the demos are reduced to 128kbps MP3 audio so it is not going to be audio fidelity however I play at gig volume with all circuits and I also do not like harshness in the highs, but likely we are using different rigs. Incidentally I played the opening track in the 2nd video as well but again this is an MP3 audio. In real life it is so much bigger and better.


That said everybodies ears, rigs and preferences are not the same. No big deal there.

I suggest you go over the entire circuit with a probe before pulling components is all.


The mod you suggest would not accomplish the desired result of "taming the highs". C8 is for RF. The tone stage is R9 and C6 which is a low pass filter that rolls off from about 1K up. No effect on frequencies below that.

Since I cannot see the build I will stop there.


Even better yet than a simple passive tone control, use our Tone TwEQ 3 band active EQ which will fit inside a small enclosure with another circuit and you can then have complete control over Highs, Mids and Bottom. You can even bypass the passive tone section. Also it would be a good idea since you are comparing it to circuits that also use Active EQ's like the Wampler.


Anything further please start a new thread.

September 28, 2017 at 3:04 PM Flag Quote & Reply

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